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For all of you, like us, who mourn the slowing down of the gardening season, here’s some good news:

For all of you, like us, who mourn the slowing down of the gardening season, here’s some good news: Plants may go dormant in the winter, but we don’t have to! Winter is the perfect time to revisit your existing garden design and consider new plant varieties! Some landscaping projects are actually better suited for the colder months, and there are definitely advantages to getting an early start in winter! Let’s take a look!

ADVANTAGES TO PLANNING IN THE WINTER

• You can see clearly: The bones of the garden are exposed in winter, allowing you to easily see what’s out of balance and where you might want to add in structure or visual texture, whether in the form of plants or hardscaping.
• Don’t compete: Hiring one of our designers in the winter means you’re not competing with high- season demands such as installation supervision! We have an amazing team of landscape designers here at The Green Thumbers that would love to help you get a head start on your project!
• Avoid delays: City or municipal agencies are less likely to be bogged down with plan approvals in winter. Use this time to get a jump on any necessary permits to avoid start-up delays come spring! If you know where you want to plant a tree this spring, get the location looked at now! Figure out your property lines & get to really know your yard! This will make for smooth sailing when it’s time to plant or dig!

FIND FRESH IDEAS

• Read up: Cold winter days are the perfect time to catch up on gardening design books and magazines, and don’t forget to flip through those lovely seed catalogs that are going to start filling up your mailboxes pretty soon!! Now is the perfect time to fill your brain up with all the knowledge that you may need during the growing season. Another good idea is to research fertilizers, insecticides & fungicides that you might need this year!
• Catch up: Get caught up on the latest trends in gardening! Explore the color of the year, terracotta! Find some Native pollinator plants to add to your garden to help out our little bee & butterfly friends! Try out organic options in soils, fertilizers, insecticides & fungicides… and maybe even explore composting! Look at some different garden styles including vertical & raised garden beds, cottage gardens & sensory gardens!

GET DESIGNING

• Design with winter in mind: Protecting your landscape from winter damage can start in the design process. Since we’re in an area that gets snow, make sure you have space to pile it up. Keep landscaping and obstacles away from areas that need to be plowed! Not only for you, but for the kind people who are out there moving that snow! Know which direction cold winter winds blow and plan an evergreen hedge or fence to provide a wind break. Become familiar with different sunlight patterns—know if your favorite sun-loving plant might actually be in the shade all winter.
• Evaluate winter color: Explore getting plants that will please the eye just as much during winter as they do in the summer! Trees such as River Birch, Heptacodium, and Crab Apples, as well as shrubs like Witch Hazel, Arctic Fire Red Twig Dogwood, Holly & Winterberry, Viburnum, Panicle Hydrangea &Ornamental grasses offer some beautiful color in the dreary winter… just when you need it the most! Early bulbs including snowdrops & crocus will even pop up through a shallow cover of snow, giving you hope that spring isn’t too far away!
• Review your photos: Take a look through garden photos taken throughout the year to remind yourself of your gardening successes or failures! Make note of possible improvements, additions, or deletions you’d like to put into action this coming season!

PLANNING AHEAD—WHAT TO DO THROUGHOUT THE YEAR

• Take pictures!!! Build a photo gallery of monthly photos of your garden. Be sure to include the good, the bad, and even the ugly! This will help you decide over the winter months what you would like to add or eliminate come spring!
• Keep a garden journal: Include monthly notes in a garden journal of what worked, what didn’t, when plants sprouted or bloomed, and maintenance done! Have fun with it!

The Green Thumbers wishes you ALL the success this year in your gardening adventures! PLEASE feel free to call us with any & all questions or ideas that you have! We have a whole staff of experts, artists, designers & horticulturists just waiting to assist you in making your garden the best that it can be this year.

Is your garden filling up with spent flowers?

Is your garden filling up with spent flowers? If you don’t mind the mix of fresh and mature flowers, you can absolutely leave them alone. Shrubs don’t need to be deadheaded to remain healthy or, if they rebloom, to keep the show going! But if you have the itch to snip, we’ve listed shrubs you can deadhead (as long as you’re careful)!

Deadheading definition: The removal of spent or unattractive flowers. This is done to either improve your view or save the plant some energy.

General how-to for deadheading: Follow the stem of the spent flower down to a set of leaves and snip just above them. Even shrubs that flower on old wood can be deadheaded.

There are a number of reasons flowers on a newly planted shrub would turn brown, but the most common is stress. Shrubs planted in the summer are more sensitive to heat and water stress, and the plant’s first priority is to maintain the foliage and build a root system. This may result in the flowers spending faster than normal. It’s best to just deadhead them to save the plant energy. After the plant is established, its future blooms will last longer.

SNIP

Some spent flowers either aren’t handsome or actively waste the plant’s energy by turning into seeds. In both cases, they can be removed.

*Annuals: Marigolds, Geraniums, Dahlias

*Lilac

*Hydrangea

*Butterfly Bush

*Rose Bushes

*Spirea

*Perennials: Coneflower, Hosta, Daisy, Black Eyed Susan, Coreopsis, Lady’s Mantle, Salvia

Shrubs that promise a fall or winter show with berries, hips, or elegant looking dried flowers don’t have to be cut.

Grubs hatch mid-August!  After this time, you can no longer use grub preventative… which prevents the eggs from hatching, which has already happened this year, so now you have to apply a Grub Killer to your lawn! You won’t see the damage until well into September, when you will see brown patches start to appear in your lawn. Dig and lift up one square foot of sod, and if you have a grub problem, you’ll see at least 8-10 grubs under the sod in that one square foot of area. In general for any yard, if you go out and dig up a one square foot area of sod, you may see a grub or two, which is normal and nothing to fret about. The higher number of grubs is where you start seeing problems.

Grubs typically tend to lay their eggs in lush green grass in June & July, with the eggs hatching in mid August. So if you’re watering your yard and keeping it super green and healthy, the grubs are going to love that. These lawns will be more apt to have eggs hatching and grub problems, especially following a summer like this one, because they’ve more than likely laid their eggs in your nice, lush, thick green turf & avoided yards that are on the dry side. These grubs are high-class, living their lavish lifestyles under your lawn. You can apply grub killer mid August through October- this is when you’ll really start to notice damage if you have a grub problem. Grub killer will kill grubs right away, as soon as there is direct contact. It kills within 24 hours. You will need to apply Grub Killer and then water it in well right away, so that it gets carried down to where the grubs are immediately… do not wait until it rains. Grubs dwell right below the root system of your sod and they feed on the roots. This causes the roots to die, leading to those horrible brown patches that you see on the surface of your lawn. This grass won’t grow back, it will have to be removed and re-seeded for new grass to grow there.

If you’re having grub damage this year, we highly suggest that you apply grub preventative next year during the months of May, June & July, before grub eggs can hatch!!

Building drought tolerant gardens!

Gardens in our area are entering Autumn stressed from scorching hot temperatures & the lack of summer rains. However, some plants adapt quickly to dry & hot conditions! Drought-tolerant plants are not only tough and dependable, but also beautiful and functional in landscaping! We encourage you to consider planting drought-tolerant plants this fall that won’t require quite as much daily watering or care next summer! We have an abundance of options out in the nursery, and some friendly Green Thumbers who would love to assist you in finding some beautiful drought-tolerant plants for your yard!

Lack of water can be a major stresser for some plants. Although plants experience water stress due to a lack of rainfall or routine watering, they also lose water naturally through the pores in their leaves. This is completely normal and it’s called “transpiration”. The pores in the plant’s leaves open up to accept carbon dioxide into the leaves for photosynthesis, but unfortunately the open pores also allow water vapor to escape or evaporate. Signs that a plant is stressed due to lack of water include: curling leaves, yellowing of leaves, stunted overall growth, and leaf scorch which looks like crunchy brown burns on the top of the leaves. All of these signs are visible to the human eye & can be addressed with more water! On the flip side, drought-tolerant plants adapt to dry conditions based on their ability to increase water absorption and conservation. They have deeper, better-developed root systems, helping them to source water from further down in the soil, which is helpful during hot & dry conditions. Many drought-tolerant plants also have smaller leaves to reduce the leaf surface area, meaning less exposure to water loss! Leaves are also protected from evaporation by either wax-coating or tiny hairs. Both types of leaves trap water and reduce the amount of water loss!

Consider these species of drought-tolerant plants that thrive in hot, dry conditions: Baptisia, Coneflower, Joe Pye Weed, Big Bluestem, Little Bluestem, Switch Grass, Coreopsis, Catmint, Yarrow, Butterfly Weed, Gaillardia(Blanket Flower), Daylily, Russian Sage, Sedum, Beebalm, Liatris, Beardtongue.

Remember: If you’re wanting some major new landscaping done in your yard, you can trust our team to come check out your area & design something new & beautiful for your outdoor living space!! MAKIN IT LOOK GREAT SINCE 1948!

Native plants have formed symbiotic relationships with native wildlife for hundreds of years.

Native plants have formed symbiotic relationships with native wildlife for hundreds of years. Therefore, native plants offer a more sustainable environment. These plants can significantly reduce water runoff and, consequently, flooding. They also provide shelter and food for wildlife. Native plants support pollinators and attract a variety of birds which include hummingbirds as well as butterflies and other wildlife by providing diverse habitats and food sources. These native perennials are more hardy to our zone so there’s no need to hold your breath during those wicked winters. They are also of the few plants that are nonhybridized. In their true and pure form, these plants were here before we humans were and will remain long after we’re gone. We have a large selection of native perennials that offer beautiful foliage to pollinating blooms. Our current selection includes:

• Cinnamon Fern
• Eastern Hay-scented Fern
• Golden Star
• Turtlehead
• Marsh Marigold
• Barren Strawberry
• Jeana Garden Phlox
• Ruby Star Coneflower
• Culvers Root
• Geranium M. Espresso
• Pink Manners Obedient Plant
• Summer Nights Oxeye

Ruby Star Coneflower

Petite Pink

Jeana Garden Phlox

Marsh Marigold

Hot Paprika

Summer Nights Oxeye

Lemon Zest

Rosa Double Red

Perennial Ornamental Grasses

Some of the easiest, most low maintenance plants you can grow for fall interest in your landscape are perennial ornamental grasses. In fact, most grasses offer great interest all season long! Grasses provide wonderful texture, movement, beautiful plumes & vibrant fall color to your landscaping in the later seasons of the year. We have some great options here at The Green Thumbers including Indian grass, Native grasses, Maiden grass (closest thing to pampas grass that grows here), Switchgrass, Big & Little Bluestem, Fountain, Zebra grass, as well as many other forms of Miscanthus etc…. If your garden is missing these brilliant elements of the autumn landscape, visit us for a walk through the nursery & take a look! We have a goooood healthy amount of NEW grasses that just arrived this week!

Why plant perennial grasses?

• They are easy to grow and require little maintenance to thrive.

• They provide additional texture & movement to your landscape.

• They are long-lived, & super hardy in our area!

• They bring the element of change to your landscape as they grow and mature through all four seasons. Their interesting texture is present in every season except late winter to early spring.

Whether you use them as screens, accents, or focal points, ornamental grasses are an easy way to add graceful texture and year-round color to your landscape. Most of them are very drought/heat tolerant, keeping their good looks no matter the weather. Plus, they aren’t usually bothered by pests and diseases, & deer tend to leave them alone. Enjoy these tough, versatile perennial plants in your yard! Here’s a few more things we love about ornamental grasses:

Tall grasses in a large grouping can be a perfect solution for blocking an unpleasant view or creating a sort of “privacy screen” to block out traffic or the neighbors. For the best effect, choose a taller variety such as Big Blue Stem, Native Indian grass, or Switchgrass, all of which can reach about 4-6 feet tall when seeded out. Keep in mind that you’ll cut back your ornamental grasses close to the ground in early spring, so there will be a month or two while your grasses are growing that you won’t have that privacy! Taller grasses can also be planted close together to create a unique wind block to your yard during the summer/harvest months!

Ornamental grasses add the best texture to the landscape. You can really maximize this effect by planting several different varieties of grass in the same landscape area to keep the eye moving!

Grasses can do a great job of “softening” the look & feel of an area. In an area with a lot of hardscape such as walls, stonework, paving or larger patios, ornamental grasses can provide a softer flowy feel to your view!

Grasses really shine at the end of the season when most annuals and perennials look worn out. Many grasses offer twice the interest: They have beautiful seed heads and stunning fall color. Switchgrass, Native Indian grass, Blackhawk Big Blue Stem & Little Blue Stem are some of the best grasses for a power punch of beautiful fall color!

Native grasses can be great for attracting wildlife, especially birds. Birds will use the leaf blades for making nests, find shelter in larger grasses, and many bird species will actually eat the seeds!

Our pros out in the nursery can assist you in choosing the perfect grasses needed to add that oomph to your landscaping!! Stop and see us at 3030 Brady Street here in good ole Davenport Iowa! 563-323-0055

It sure has been a hot and humid summer. It’s a fact, sad but true though, that summer is winding down. The season of extended days never seems long enough, but it’s time for gardeners everywhere to reap what they have sown and enjoy the beauty of AUTUMN!

For a quick fall refresh, give your garden borders and containers a quick pop of color by replacing tired looking Impatiens & Geraniums with plants that will thrive in the cooler temperatures to come. Zinnias, Celosia & Garden Mums are great options! They’ll provide a lot of color through summer’s end and into mid-autumn. And if you’d rather plant perennials, don’t forget about Asters or Ornamental Grasses. They’ll be spectacular as they begin to flower!

Keep applying fungicide on any plants affected by Powdery Mildew as long as the weather stays warm and humid. We’ve been seeing it on Peonies, Lilacs, Phlox and Ninebark. We suggest Copper Soap or Broad Spectrum Fungicide which we carry here at the Garden Center!

A great way to enjoy Autumn color in your own yard is to plant as many trees, shrubs and perennials that have Autumn interest as possible. Then sit back and enjoy the season’s painting in your own backyard!

Here’s our go-to list of plants with some great fall interest!!

Large shrubs: Virginia Sweet Spire, Fothergilla, Viburnum, Burning Bush.

Smaller shrubs: Spirea, Dwarf Sweetspire, Summersweet, Diervilla, Azalea.

Trees: Pacific Sunset Maple, Sun Valley Maple, Crimson Sunset Maple, October Glory Maple, Ginko, Redbud, Black Gum, Crabapple.

Keep in mind that good fall interest isn’t limited to woody plants. Plenty of perennials can put on an eye-catching show. Try Aronia, Sedum, Amsonia, Coral Bells, Anemone, Aster, Hibiscus.

We have everything you need to turn your yard into a place of autumn beauty! Come take a walk through the nursery and see what catches your eye!

HOW & WHEN TO PLANT BULBS!

Bulbs are precious little bundles of flower power that make us wait weeks, sometimes months, for results — but boy, are they worth it!! The term “bulb” refers not only to true bulbs, but also plants with tuberous roots, tubers, corms, and rhizomes. The information here can be applied to all of these! With a little basic knowledge, anyone can grow beautiful bulbs! Here’s how:

-PLANTING BULBS-

-WHEN TO PLANT BULBS-

In our area, Spring-flowering bulbs can be planted as soon as the ground is cool, evening temperatures average 40° to 50°F, and ideally 6 to 8 weeks before the ground freezes. Come shop for bulbs now for the best availability! Bulbs can be stored in a dry cool place until planting if needed. Summer-flowering bulbs should be planted in mid to late spring.

-WHERE TO PLANT BULBS-

Here’s a cool thing: As long as you make sure that your bulbs have good drainage and sunlight, you can plant them just about anywhere!! Drainage is critical to keep bulbs from rotting. They like loamy or slightly sandy soil because it provides the drainage and nutrients they need to survive & thrive! Another cool thing: Early-spring bloomers can be planted under deciduous trees where they’ll get enough sun to bloom before the tree’s leaves block out the light!

-PLAN BEFORE YOU PLANT-

Bulbs can be grown in many ways — formal gardens, meadow gardens, under trees, or strategically planted throughout beds and borders. Many bulbs will multiply, coming back year after year, so if you take this into consideration & plan carefully, you can have years of enjoyment from one planting. Once your bulbs have established & multiplied, you can split them & plant more in other areas! Planting in clusters provides greater visual impact, drawing your eye to a larger mass of foliage & color! There’s nothing prettier than seeing large areas full of flowering tulips!!

• Take into account bloom time — plant a combination of early, mid & late-season bloomers to enjoy your bulbs for an extended season! It’s a good idea to plant your early spring bloomers in back & your later season bloomers in front… this way your later season bulbs will hide the dying foliage of your early spring bulbs!

• Layer plant heights from front to back when planting varieties that will bloom at the same time so you can see all of your beautiful blooms!

• Many bulbs are actually perfect for container planting! Bring them into view when they’re blooming and move them out of the way when foliage is wilting and when dormant. You can leave them in their container & winter them over in a cool, dark place like your basement or garage! When you plant them in a container, you can snug them right up next to each other and fill your pot full!

• Bulbs provide bright, vibrant color — think about how those colors will blend with their surroundings! Choose colors that will accent the rest of your plants!

-HOW TO PLANT BULBS-

Bulbs can be planted in layers by digging up an entire area down to the proper depth, placing the bulbs and covering; or in individual holes dug for each bulb. Figure out the planting depth for the type of bulb you’re planting. If planted too deep, flowers will bloom late or not at all. If planted too shallow, new growth may become exposed too soon and risk damage by cold temperatures. If you are unsure of the exact planting depth, a good general rule of thumb is to plant the bulb 2 to 3 times as deep as the bulb is tall!

1. Prepare the soil by loosening it and mixing in good compost if needed for added nutrients. Special bulb fertilizer or blood meal can be added to help your bulbs thrive, which we carry here in our garden center!

2. Place the bulbs with the pointy-end up and with the roots down. If you’re not sure of the top or bottom of the bulb, plant it on its side and it will find its way to the surface! Smart little fellas.

3. Cover with soil and a light layer of mulch.

4. Newly planted bulbs should be watered well to get settled in.

-AFTER-CARE-

For all bulbs, after blooming, cut only the flower stem back. Leave foliage intact until it turns yellow and wilts to the ground… the bulb sucks the energy & nutrients out of the leaves and back into the bulb to store until next year! How cool is that? If the foliage is cut back too soon, bulbs might not perform very well the following season.